Little gem of a restaurant offers more than just Pie in the Sky

Peter Gruner joins Andrew Payne, one of Britain’s most successful TV writers, for a meal at Gem restaurant – an oasis of calm away from his word processor

“I’ve been coming here for six years,” Andrew said, “and the food is always freshly cooked and wonderful. It’s a little oasis away from the word processor where I can really relax in great surroundings.”

We ordered the meze for two, starting with the tasty Kurdish flatbread stuffed with spinach. It was followed by a mouth-watering array of dishes including minced beyti kebab, fresh yoghurt, chilli sauce, as well as houmous, pitta bread and salad.

There was also a delicious aubergine dish, courgettes, calamari and plates of fried chicken wings. A baklava, served with ice-cream, made an ideal dessert.

The whole thing including drinks cost about £10 each.

Gem owner Cemal Albay has been running the restaurant for seven years and includes among his satisfied diners many officers and councillors from the nearby Islington town hall. He said: “I provide good, wholesome home-cooked food at very reasonable prices and people keep coming back.”

Some recent selected comments:

The complimentary flatbreads were a lovely hint at what was to come. All the food was beautifully cooked and seemed very authentic...

The set menus are incredibly reasonable...

Once you have been you will be back...

This place is an absolute 10/10!

Overall review mark: 9.4

Although it’s further from Angel than many Islington diners are prepared to travel, this little Kurdish restaurant shouldn’t be missed. It was one of the first to station a woman in the window making qatme (Kurdish flatbread stuffed with cheese or spinach); this has since become quite a fashion in Hackney.

The whole atmosphere of the place is pleasingly unpretentious – closer to what you expect in Green Lanes or Dalston than Upper Street. The deep-orange walls are decorated with real farm implements; the peasant feel is emphasised with heavy wooden furniture.

Mücver fritters showed the reliable quality of the cooking, neither heavy nor oily, as did Arnavut Cığerı (delicately sautéed lamb’s liver with red pepper). These were followed by an outstanding Iskender, made with lamb Şış rather than the more common döner. Grilled Bildircin (quail) were exceptionally tender and meaty. A selection of vegetarian dishes is also available. A single complimentary baklava, served with ice-cream, appeared for dessert.

Gem should attract a larger crowd, though we’re not complaining; those of us who appreciate it can easily get a table.